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How To Repair Ds Lite

Written By Monday, April 11, 2022 Add Comment Edit

Introduction

I decided to teach myself how to repair Nintendo DS Lites, because broken units are bachelor cheaply on eBay in 2022. Afterward working on a few dozen units, I take seen the mistakes that people have made and I offer you this guide to brand sure that yous don't damage the unit that you're repairing (particularly if yous're fixing it for yourself). All of the problems I've seen with the DS Lite can be fixed for betwixt $2 if you merely need a new digitizer to about $10 if you need to obtain a used motherboard from an otherwise scrapped unit.

  1. The most common problem with the Nintendo DS Lite is a broken latch. You can buy a new shell for under $10 directly from China.

    • The most common problem with the Nintendo DS Lite is a broken latch. You can buy a new shell for under $10 directly from China.

  2. Unscrew the battery case with a PH000 bit. You will probably need to pry open the battery case as the cover becomes sticky with age. The battery compartment is often quite tight so you might need to gently pry out the battery with the plastic spudger. Unscrew the battery case with a PH000 bit. You will probably need to pry open the battery case as the cover becomes sticky with age. The battery compartment is often quite tight so you might need to gently pry out the battery with the plastic spudger. Unscrew the battery case with a PH000 bit. You will probably need to pry open the battery case as the cover becomes sticky with age. The battery compartment is often quite tight so you might need to gently pry out the battery with the plastic spudger.

    • Unscrew the battery case with a PH000 bit. You lot volition probably need to pry open the battery case as the cover becomes glutinous with age. The battery compartment is frequently quite tight so you might need to gently pry out the battery with the plastic spudger.

  3. Quite commonly I see this part of the DS Lite damaged. Follow these steps to remove the feet without damaging anything. Quite commonly I see this part of the DS Lite damaged. Follow these steps to remove the feet without damaging anything. Quite commonly I see this part of the DS Lite damaged. Follow these steps to remove the feet without damaging anything.

    • Quite commonly I meet this role of the DS Calorie-free damaged. Follow these steps to remove the feet without damaging annihilation.

  4. Now remove the two gold colored screws under the rubber feet and the two silver colored screws in the battery compartment with the PH000 bit. Then remove the three silver screws and the small black screw with the Y00 bit. Set the Y00 bit aside as you are done using it.

    • Now remove the two gold colored screws under the rubber anxiety and the two argent colored screws in the battery compartment with the PH000 bit. So remove the 3 silver screws and the small-scale blackness screw with the Y00 bit. Set the Y00 bit aside as you are washed using it.

  5. I see a lot of damage caused by carelessly removing the bottom cover, so take your time and carefully move the plastic spudger around the perimeter. If the bottom cover seems glued on, remove the cover with the unit closed. This may help prevent scratching the digitizer. I see a lot of damage caused by carelessly removing the bottom cover, so take your time and carefully move the plastic spudger around the perimeter. If the bottom cover seems glued on, remove the cover with the unit closed. This may help prevent scratching the digitizer.

    • I see a lot of harm caused by carelessly removing the lesser cover, then have your time and carefully movement the plastic spudger effectually the perimeter. If the bottom comprehend seems glued on, remove the cover with the unit closed. This may help forestall scratching the digitizer.

  6. Carefully grasp and remove the shoulder buttons. Try to hold the spring assembly together so that you don't lose any pieces. Without functional shoulder buttons the DS Lite isn't very useful. Carefully grasp and remove the shoulder buttons. Try to hold the spring assembly together so that you don't lose any pieces. Without functional shoulder buttons the DS Lite isn't very useful.

    • Carefully grasp and remove the shoulder buttons. Try to concur the spring assembly together so that you lot don't lose any pieces. Without functional shoulder buttons the DS Lite isn't very useful.

  7. You must remove the Wi-Fi daughterboard at this stage or you risk damaging the digitizer. I learned this the hard way. You will need to pull hard on the daughterboard as the adhesive is very strong. You must remove the Wi-Fi daughterboard at this stage or you risk damaging the digitizer. I learned this the hard way. You will need to pull hard on the daughterboard as the adhesive is very strong.

    • Y'all must remove the Wi-Fi daughterboard at this phase or you take a chance damaging the digitizer. I learned this the hard fashion. Y'all volition need to pull hard on the daughterboard as the adhesive is very potent.

  8. Gently lift the flex connector from this side. I stress gently. I've broken three of them. Gently lift the flex connector from this side. I stress gently. I've broken three of them.

    • Gently lift the flex connector from this side. I stress gently. I've broken 3 of them.

  9. Remove the final screw holding down the motherboard.

    • Remove the final screw holding down the motherboard.

  10. Flip the motherboard around as shown. Be gentle as the flex cable is fragile. Flip the motherboard around as shown. Be gentle as the flex cable is fragile. Flip the motherboard around as shown. Be gentle as the flex cable is fragile.

    • Flip the motherboard around as shown. Be gentle every bit the flex cable is delicate.

  11. Remove the flex cable with your fingernail. Do not use a flathead bit, as it may damage the connector.

    • Remove the flex cable with your fingernail. Do not use a flathead bit, as it may damage the connector.

  13. Remove this black wire. You will have to wiggle it out. One of the stupidest design decisions on the DS Lite besides the latch problem, the black wire is even harder to put back in. Do not attempt to mess with the DS cartridge port in any way. You will damage it. The black wire will come out and it will go back in when the time comes.

    • Remove this black wire. You volition have to jerk it out. 1 of the stupidest blueprint decisions on the DS Low-cal besides the latch problem, the blackness wire is even harder to put back in. Do not endeavour to mess with the DS cartridge port in whatever fashion. You volition damage information technology. The black wire volition come out and it volition go dorsum in when the fourth dimension comes.

  14. At this stage remove the white wire and the digitizer flex cable.

    • At this stage remove the white wire and the digitizer flex cable.

  15. Remove the lower display flex connector. Pry the clip up with your fingernail, as you did with the upper display.

    • Remove the lower display flex connector. Pry the clip upwardly with your fingernail, as you did with the upper display.

  16. Remove the rubber and plastic button assemblies. This step is pretty easy, but don't lose any pieces. Every plastic and rubber piece can immediately go into hot, soapy water. Remove the rubber and plastic button assemblies. This step is pretty easy, but don't lose any pieces. Every plastic and rubber piece can immediately go into hot, soapy water.

    • Remove the safety and plastic button assemblies. This pace is pretty easy, but don't lose whatsoever pieces. Every plastic and safe piece can immediately go into hot, soapy water.

  17. This is the chief design flaw of the Nintendo DS Lite. The latch assembly is much too fragile. Save the screws and the metal and plastic piece if you're replacing the shell. This is the chief design flaw of the Nintendo DS Lite. The latch assembly is much too fragile. Save the screws and the metal and plastic piece if you're replacing the shell.

    • This is the primary design flaw of the Nintendo DS Lite. The latch assembly is much too fragile. Save the screws and the metal and plastic piece if you're replacing the shell.

  18. The most common reason why DS Lites don't go together properly is that this white wire is not routed properly. When reassembling, follow this routing scheme and the finished product will feel like it is fresh off the factory floor.

    • The nigh common reason why DS Lites don't go together properly is that this white wire is non routed properly. When reassembling, follow this routing scheme and the finished product volition feel similar it is fresh off the factory floor.

  19. Make sure that both wires are routed through the center of the flex cable and carefully route the flex cable through the slit. The flex cable is incredibly fragile, and it was strengthened in later models. Take your time on this step. If it takes you ten minutes to avoid damaging the flex cable, so be it. Make sure that both wires are routed through the center of the flex cable and carefully route the flex cable through the slit. The flex cable is incredibly fragile, and it was strengthened in later models. Take your time on this step. If it takes you ten minutes to avoid damaging the flex cable, so be it.

    • Make sure that both wires are routed through the middle of the flex cable and carefully route the flex cable through the slit. The flex cable is incredibly fragile, and it was strengthened in later models. Have your time on this step. If it takes you ten minutes to avoid damaging the flex cable, and then be it.

  20. With the smallest flathead bit you can find, work the bit under the sticker to avoid damaging the unit as much as possible. Completely avoiding damage to all components is impossible. With the smallest flathead bit you can find, work the bit under the sticker to avoid damaging the unit as much as possible. Completely avoiding damage to all components is impossible. With the smallest flathead bit you can find, work the bit under the sticker to avoid damaging the unit as much as possible. Completely avoiding damage to all components is impossible.

    • With the smallest flathead bit you lot tin can find, work the bit under the sticker to avert damaging the unit as much as possible. Completely avoiding damage to all components is impossible.

  21. With the plastic spudger, pry the top cover loose. Do not remove or otherwise mess with the rubber pieces on the side. You never need to touch those, and I've seen them unnecessarily damaged and missing countless times. With the plastic spudger, pry the top cover loose. Do not remove or otherwise mess with the rubber pieces on the side. You never need to touch those, and I've seen them unnecessarily damaged and missing countless times.

    • With the plastic spudger, pry the top cover loose. Do not remove or otherwise mess with the safety pieces on the side. You never need to touch those, and I've seen them unnecessarily damaged and missing countless times.

  22. Begin pressing on the top screen as show here and work your way around. Be fairly gentle but note that the actual LCD is protected by a plastic shield in front and a metal shield in back. Begin pressing on the top screen as show here and work your way around. Be fairly gentle but note that the actual LCD is protected by a plastic shield in front and a metal shield in back.

    • Begin pressing on the top screen equally evidence hither and work your way around. Be fairly gentle but note that the actual LCD is protected by a plastic shield in forepart and a metal shield in back.

  23. Noting the routing of the black and white wires for later reassembly, remove the microphone and Wi-Fi antenna, carefully pulling the wires through the center of the flex cable so as not to cause any damage. Noting the routing of the black and white wires for later reassembly, remove the microphone and Wi-Fi antenna, carefully pulling the wires through the center of the flex cable so as not to cause any damage. Noting the routing of the black and white wires for later reassembly, remove the microphone and Wi-Fi antenna, carefully pulling the wires through the center of the flex cable so as not to cause any damage.

    • Noting the routing of the black and white wires for afterwards reassembly, remove the microphone and Wi-Fi antenna, carefully pulling the wires through the eye of the flex cable so as non to cause any damage.

  24. These should be removed and replaced shiny side up. They may be attached here or attached to the speakers.

    • These should exist removed and replaced shiny side up. They may exist attached hither or fastened to the speakers.

  25. If the flex cable is damaged, then you're out about $8 as of this writing. Exercise extreme caution with this fragile piece, carefully rolling it into a tight cylinder. If the flex cable is damaged, there is no way to repair the LCD, and the entire module must be scrapped. Remove and set aside the metal piece. If the flex cable is damaged, then you're out about $8 as of this writing. Exercise extreme caution with this fragile piece, carefully rolling it into a tight cylinder. If the flex cable is damaged, there is no way to repair the LCD, and the entire module must be scrapped. Remove and set aside the metal piece. If the flex cable is damaged, then you're out about $8 as of this writing. Exercise extreme caution with this fragile piece, carefully rolling it into a tight cylinder. If the flex cable is damaged, there is no way to repair the LCD, and the entire module must be scrapped. Remove and set aside the metal piece.

    • If the flex cable is damaged, so you're out nigh $eight as of this writing. Exercise farthermost caution with this fragile piece, carefully rolling it into a tight cylinder. If the flex cablevision is damaged, in that location is no mode to repair the LCD, and the unabridged module must exist scrapped. Remove and set up bated the metal piece.

  26. Remove three gold screws from the stylus retainer and two gold screws from the metal shield. Disassemble. You will need to gently pry loose the power switch and volume control. Wash all shell plastic pieces shown in hot, soapy water. Alcohol may be required to remove decals and other grime. Remove three gold screws from the stylus retainer and two gold screws from the metal shield. Disassemble. You will need to gently pry loose the power switch and volume control. Wash all shell plastic pieces shown in hot, soapy water. Alcohol may be required to remove decals and other grime. Remove three gold screws from the stylus retainer and two gold screws from the metal shield. Disassemble. You will need to gently pry loose the power switch and volume control. Wash all shell plastic pieces shown in hot, soapy water. Alcohol may be required to remove decals and other grime.

    • Remove three gold screws from the stylus retainer and two aureate screws from the metal shield. Disassemble. You will need to gently pry loose the ability switch and volume control. Launder all crush plastic pieces shown in hot, soapy water. Booze may be required to remove decals and other crud.

  27. If you're replacing the shell with a different color, you definitely need to remove the sticker. With the iFixit metal spudger, this step is easy. If you're replacing the shell with a different color, you definitely need to remove the sticker. With the iFixit metal spudger, this step is easy. If you're replacing the shell with a different color, you definitely need to remove the sticker. With the iFixit metal spudger, this step is easy.

    • If you're replacing the shell with a different colour, yous definitely need to remove the sticker. With the iFixit metal spudger, this step is easy.

  28. Slide the metal spudger under the black sticker and carefully work your way around the assembly, avoiding the flex cables. This step is easier than it looks, but only perform this step if the screen or the digitizer needs to be replaced. If both are functional, this step is unnecessary. Thoroughly clean both pieces with alcohol afterwards. Slide the metal spudger under the black sticker and carefully work your way around the assembly, avoiding the flex cables. This step is easier than it looks, but only perform this step if the screen or the digitizer needs to be replaced. If both are functional, this step is unnecessary. Thoroughly clean both pieces with alcohol afterwards. Slide the metal spudger under the black sticker and carefully work your way around the assembly, avoiding the flex cables. This step is easier than it looks, but only perform this step if the screen or the digitizer needs to be replaced. If both are functional, this step is unnecessary. Thoroughly clean both pieces with alcohol afterwards.

    • Slide the metallic spudger under the black sticker and advisedly work your mode around the assembly, avoiding the flex cables. This step is easier than it looks, but only perform this step if the screen or the digitizer needs to be replaced. If both are functional, this step is unnecessary. Thoroughly clean both pieces with alcohol afterwards.

  29. This step is only necessary if your upper LCD is bad. Unfortunately, this is a common problem. First, wet the contacts with flux. Then, with your iron at 400 degrees C, melt the solder and remove all four wires. It might help to add fresh solder with lead. The lead-free solder used by Nintendo sucks. This step is only necessary if your upper LCD is bad. Unfortunately, this is a common problem. First, wet the contacts with flux. Then, with your iron at 400 degrees C, melt the solder and remove all four wires. It might help to add fresh solder with lead. The lead-free solder used by Nintendo sucks. This step is only necessary if your upper LCD is bad. Unfortunately, this is a common problem. First, wet the contacts with flux. Then, with your iron at 400 degrees C, melt the solder and remove all four wires. It might help to add fresh solder with lead. The lead-free solder used by Nintendo sucks.

    • This footstep is only necessary if your upper LCD is bad. Unfortunately, this is a common problem. First, wet the contacts with flux. Then, with your fe at 400 degrees C, melt the solder and remove all 4 wires. It might help to add fresh solder with lead. The lead-gratuitous solder used past Nintendo sucks.

  30. Clean up the contacts as you prefer. I use a tiny American-made solder wick and I've applied some fresh lead-based solder. Clean up the contacts as you prefer. I use a tiny American-made solder wick and I've applied some fresh lead-based solder.

    • Clean upwardly the contacts as you lot prefer. I use a tiny American-made solder wick and I've applied some fresh lead-based solder.

  31. Inspect the flex cable for damage.

    • Audit the flex cable for damage.

  32. The plastic cover is wedged underneath the back metal cover and is held on by a few different schemes, depending upon how old the DS Lite is. One method is two tabs on each side. Gently work the tabs loose without removing the back metal cover. This step is unnecessary unless you're changing the color of the shell. The plastic cover is wedged underneath the back metal cover and is held on by a few different schemes, depending upon how old the DS Lite is. One method is two tabs on each side. Gently work the tabs loose without removing the back metal cover. This step is unnecessary unless you're changing the color of the shell. The plastic cover is wedged underneath the back metal cover and is held on by a few different schemes, depending upon how old the DS Lite is. One method is two tabs on each side. Gently work the tabs loose without removing the back metal cover. This step is unnecessary unless you're changing the color of the shell.

    • The plastic cover is wedged underneath the back metal comprehend and is held on by a few unlike schemes, depending upon how onetime the DS Lite is. One method is 2 tabs on each side. Gently piece of work the tabs loose without removing the dorsum metal encompass. This stride is unnecessary unless you're irresolute the colour of the shell.

  33. Now test the disassembled unit. First, connect the Wi-Fi daughterboard. Then connect the two screens to the motherboard. Then, while holding the battery in place, turn on the unit. The unit should power on as shown (provided that the displays were working in the first place---replace them first if necessary). Now test the disassembled unit. First, connect the Wi-Fi daughterboard. Then connect the two screens to the motherboard. Then, while holding the battery in place, turn on the unit. The unit should power on as shown (provided that the displays were working in the first place---replace them first if necessary).

    • Now test the disassembled unit. Starting time, connect the Wi-Fi daughterboard. Then connect the two screens to the motherboard. Then, while holding the battery in place, turn on the unit. The unit should power on as shown (provided that the displays were working in the first place---supervene upon them first if necessary).

Conclusion

To reassemble your device:

1) Insure that the white wire is properly routed before remounting the motherboard.

two) Carefully reassemble the shoulder buttons. This takes do.

3) Insure that the alignment of the power switch and volume controls are correct earlier replacing the bottom case. Incorrect alignment will damage the motherboard and you won't be able to turn on the unit anymore.

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How To Repair Ds Lite,

Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+DS+Lite+Disassembly/86279

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